What to Do and See in Portofino: 10 Must-Visit Places in the Ligurian Village

Portofino has the fate of all places considered VIP destinations: the reputation of the place overshadows its beauty. So the main reason people visit is not what there is to see, but the desire “to be there” and say they have been.

Known since ancient times as Portus delphini — from which its name derives — this village is taken by storm every year by international tourism, which sees it as one of the symbols of the Italian “dolce vita”.

Although many tourists simply take a selfie in the Piazzetta, visiting Portofino’s main places of interest and monuments requires a little effort, because they are all in the upper part of the village and involve a walk: the Church of San Giorgio, Castello Brown and the Lighthouse. But it is worth it, especially for the magnificent view over the village and the Gulf of Tigullio.

There are actually also 80 km of trails in the Portofino Natural Park, but they are for the more experienced and adventurous, and allow you to discover some gems around Portofino, such as the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, Paraggi, Niasca and Santa Margherita Ligure. In reality, you can also get there by more convenient means, so do not miss them!

We are telling you nothing new by warning you that Portofino is expensive, very expensive. Hotels, restaurants, a pizza or even a simple ice cream cost double or triple compared with other Ligurian destinations, so we recommend staying there and then getting around as explained in the paragraph “How to get to Portofino”.

If you visit in summer, a swim at one of the few available beaches is a must — again, they can be difficult to reach, but they reward you with the most famous blue sea in the world.

In short, despite some limitations imposed by the destination, Portofino is absolutely worth visiting, as millions of people have done over the years. On this page we recommend what to do and see in Portofino during a weekend or short holiday, with a few tips on the surrounding area too.

If you are looking for a hotel in Portofino, we recommend choosing from those offered by Booking.com. There are around 60 hotels with prices, photos and reviews from previous guests. Go to Booking.com.

1

The Piazzetta of Portofino brings together, in one enchanting view, a typically Ligurian and Italian landscape: it is partly a harbour for fishing boats, partly a shopping area with boutiques under the porticoes, and partly an Italian square with cafés and restaurants. Although its real name is Piazza Martiri Dell’Olivetta, everyone knows it as the Piazzetta of Portofino, a place that belongs to the myths of international tourism.

It is a harmonious ensemble unique in the world, so much so that the Piazzetta of Portofino has been named a “Historic Place of Italy”, a title usually reserved for historic cafés, shops and restaurants in our country. Set directly on the sea, with Portofino’s colourful houses behind it, this space is one of the symbols of Italian beauty around the world.

On any day of the year, here you will come across fishermen returning from the sea, mass tourists dropped off by ferries and the occasional wealthy VIP who has moored a yacht just a little further on and is enjoying an aperitif at the tables.

Around the Piazzetta you can still admire the large palaces built over the centuries by Portofino’s wealthy residents: shipowners, merchants and nobles who, for trade or convenience, needed immediate access to the sea.

The Piazzetta is an expensive place, but you do not necessarily have to be fleeced: you can sit on a bench and admire the sea and the constant flow of people. The beauty of this place is the same for everyone, regardless of their wallet.

From the Piazzetta branch off the typical Genoese “caruggi”, narrow sloping alleys that lead towards the more internal and higher part of the village of Portofino.

There are no monuments of particular interest around the Piazzetta, but the Church of Divo Martino is worth a visit. It can be reached in a few minutes on foot along the Salita della Chiesa, which starts right from the Piazzetta.

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A small uphill road to the left of the Piazzetta leads to the Church of San Giorgio, the most important church in Portofino: here are preserved the remains of the saint, who is also the patron saint of the village.

How the saint’s relics arrived here is easy to explain: Genoese sailors are among the best in the world and took part in the Crusades. During one of them, they brought back the remains of the saint famous for having killed the dragon. It should also be pointed out that more than 30 churches around the world claim to have relics of Saint George, so…

The Baroque church does not contain particularly valuable works, partly because it was destroyed during the Second World War and completely rebuilt in the 1950s. The best thing about this place is the square outside, which offers a magnificent view of the village and the Gulf of Portofino.

In the church square, a plaque commemorates Baroness Mumm, heir to the founder of the famous German Champagne company. The Baroness is said to have saved Portofino from complete destruction by kneeling before the Nazi commander who, in 1945, had mined the entire village.

The Nazis had taken up residence at the Castle of San Giorgio, the beautiful building that stands right in front of the church and which at the time belonged to the Mumm family.

Opening hours and ticket price for the Church of San Giorgio

Opening hours: summer: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Winter: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Closed in bad weather.

Ticket price: free.

How to get there: on foot from the Piazzetta in 10 minutes. There is a steeper and shorter stairway starting from Molo Umberto I.

3

If few tourists climb up to the Church of San Giorgio, even fewer continue on to Castello Brown. So we recommend not doing what most tourists do, who go back down towards the Piazzetta after visiting San Giorgio.

Look up and do not be intimidated by the slope that leads to Castello Brown, whose outline dominates Portofino. Face the 10-minute climb with determination, because it is worth it.

As you climb, the fashionable atmosphere of the village disappears and the most authentic side of Portofino emerges. The houses thin out and nature bursts forth. The view over the village and the gulf becomes spectacular. After 15 minutes uphill, you reach the park and Castello Brown. The park is a wonderful Mediterranean garden overlooking the village of Portofino and the Gulf.

There are countless photos to take from the castle, and if you have ever seen a photo of Portofino, it was probably taken from here.

The Castle bears the name of the British consul who bought it in 1867, although today it belongs to the Municipality of Portofino.

The rooms still preserve original furnishings, a majolica depicting the Adoration of the Magi attributed to Gagini, and a photographic story of Portofino’s “Dolce Vita” with vintage images of all the famous people who have visited Portofino: Walt Disney, Totò, Churchill, Laurel and Hardy, and so on.

Opening hours and ticket price for Castello Brown

Opening hours: summer from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; winter 10 a.m.–4 p.m.
Ticket price: Park and Castle admission €5.00. Free up to 12 years old.
How to get there: on foot from the Church of San Giorgio in 10 minutes.

4

The climb towards the upper part of the village ends with a visit to the Portofino Lighthouse. You get there by continuing for another 10 minutes on foot after visiting Castello Brown. The lighthouse dominates the Gulf of Tigullio from a height of 40 metres.

Although the lighthouse cannot be visited inside because it is still in operation, the effort is still rewarded by the magnificent view from this promontory suspended over the sea. The best times to arrive are sunrise and sunset, when it is not too hot and the horizon offers wonderful colours.

After the walk, you can enjoy the landscape from the tables of the “Il Faro di Portofino” lounge bar, where you can have an aperitif before heading back towards the Piazzetta.

5

To the right of the Piazzetta, where the long parade of rich people’s boats begins, stands the Portofino Park Museum. It is a contemporary art collection spread across the terraced gardens so loved by Baron Mumm — the Champagne baron who once owned the Castle of San Giorgio.

Walking along the pier, you realise you have reached the Museum when the outline of Stefano Bombardieri’s Rhinoceros appears, entitled “The Weight of Suspended Time – Rhinoceros”. From here, there follows a succession of terraces, plants from all over the world, scents, magnificent sea views and sculptures by international artists.

Among the most representative names are Pomodoro, Costa, Messina and Chromy. By the latter artist there is a spectacular sculpture of a diver about to plunge into the sea.

Together with the private art gallery located in the Piazzetta, this is Portofino’s main place of art, so it is worth a visit for both the works and the natural setting in which they are placed.

Opening hours and ticket price for the Park Museum

Opening hours: from June to September 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3 p.m.–7 p.m. — closed on Tuesday
Ticket price: free.
How to get there: on foot from the Piazzetta.

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Very few tourists venture into the Portofino Natural Park, but we strongly recommend doing so. There are about 80 km of very ancient trails, all on dirt tracks, which were once used to connect the various towns along the coast and the main religious sites in this part of Liguria.

Of course, you do not have to walk them all, but only those suited to your level of physical fitness. We recommend the most scenic ones starting right from Portofino: the first, unmissable, is the one leading to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso. It is about 5 spectacular kilometres, taking around an hour and a half. The final section is steep and more difficult, so it should be tackled with suitable footwear.

Equally spectacular and recommended is the route that goes from Portofino towards Paraggi, about 2.5 km long and walkable in under an hour. This trail is easier and also runs just a few metres from the coast. The arrival point is the splendid Bay of Paraggi, where in summer an unmissable swim awaits you! If you get tired earlier, there is the equally beautiful Bay of Niasca.

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Portofino’s blue water is an irresistible temptation for sea lovers. Especially if you visit the village in summer, taking a swim is almost a must. But what are the most beautiful beaches in and around Portofino?

Let’s start with the closest ones: in theory, you can also dive into the sea in front of the village, which is convenient, but swimming in a harbour among moving boats and ferries is not ideal. If you really cannot resist, it is better to move below the Park Museum, where access to the water is easier and there is less traffic at sea. Moving only a little further, you reach much more beautiful beaches: the closest is Olivetta Beach. To get there, follow the same path that leads to the Lighthouse — see point 4 — and continue for a few minutes.

Seven minutes on foot from Portofino, to the left of the village, is Baia Cannone Beach. It can be reached by taking the iron stairway near the Piccolo Hotel. When you see the outline of Villa Mondadori, you have arrived and can dive in!

After Baia Cannone comes the little cove of Niasca, charming but really just a narrow strip of stones.

The most convenient and “classic” beach is Paraggi, located just after Niasca and only 2.5 km from Portofino: you can get there on foot, by car or by local bus. It is a beach full of bathing establishments, equipped with every comfort, for those who love beautiful sea but also convenience!

From Portofino you can also reach San Fruttuoso Beach, where you can swim in history while admiring the wonderful Abbey. It is reached mainly by ferry from Portofino or, more laboriously, along the trails mentioned above.

There are many other enchanting bays and coves in Portofino, such as Cala degli Inglesi, but they can only be reached by sea.

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The stretch of coast with Portofino at its centre offers endless opportunities for visits and discovery. Without going too far and moving only a few kilometres, Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli are absolutely worth visiting. The former is a beautiful town famous for seaside tourism, while the latter is a scenic bay with colourful houses clustered against the sea. The colours of Portofino, but without Portofino’s pretentiousness and costs!

From Portofino, an excursion on foot or by boat to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso is well worth it. This FAI site is scenically set against the beach, with a few houses, a bar and some restaurants.

Moving west, the spectacular scenery of the Cinque Terre awaits you, which we cover in this guide.

If you have a few extra days, the regional capital is absolutely worth visiting. You can discover everything with our guide to the 15 things to do and see in Genoa.

9

Portofino’s cuisine is typically Ligurian and Genoese. We should add that it is also expensive, because there are few restaurants, almost all of them high-end, and what you pay for is the location more than the quality of the cooking. Everything is expensive: even a simple pizza, if you sit in the Piazzetta, will cost you a fortune. The view is worth it, but do not expect to find a Neapolitan Margherita on your plate!

If you decide to sit down at a restaurant table, common wisdom says you should order, at least once, pasta with pesto, Liguria’s first course par excellence. In this case, the choice should fall on Portofino’s historic restaurants: Puny, Tripoli or Stella are the first choices. Away from the most touristy streets is Concordia, preferred by locals. There are also VIP reserves, such as Cracco and the Dolce & Gabbana Bar, to be chosen if you like paying a lot and being noticed.

Even in summer, you may have the chance to taste filled pasta, a typical product of the Genoese area, such as ravioli and traditional pansotti, filled with eggs, chard and ricotta. Among first courses, torta Pasqualina is also widespread: a puff pastry pie filled with artichokes or cooked chard, courgettes, cheese and eggs.

Among main courses, fish from the Gulf of Tigullio prevails, appearing on the plate as fried fish or Genoese-style stockfish, prepared with cod, squid, anchovies and sardines. Fish is better eaten in trattorias outside the Piazzetta, recognisable by a less sophisticated atmosphere and traditional menus — for example, Il Marinaio.

In any case, you do not necessarily have to spend a fortune in a restaurant: an excellent alternative is Panificio Canale, where you can taste another typical product of these places: focaccia prepared in many different ways, or farinata, a thin flatbread made with chickpea flour mixed with water, oil and salt, then baked in a wood-fired oven.

To end the meal beautifully, you should try Genoese Christmas pandolce, a sort of flattened panettone filled with raisins and small pieces of lemon peel, apple fritters, castagnaccio and canestrelli.

Among the white wines to choose are Bianchetta Genovese, Ciliegiolo, Dolcetto, Moscato Bianco, Scimiscià and Vermentino.

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You can get to Portofino on foot, by car, by train, by bus or by sea.

Getting to Portofino by car

We will say it straight away: forget the car, do not even think about it! It is not the best way to reach a village perched by the sea, with few residents, no space and, in summer, overwhelmed by tourists. There is a tiny car park at the end of the village, but in summer it is practically impossible to find a space unless you queue and hope for a miracle. If you still want to try your luck, the motorway exit to take is Rapallo.

The only place where you are almost sure to find a parking space is Santa Margherita Ligure, 5 km from Portofino. From Santa Margherita you can take the boat, a taxi, local bus 82, or walk the 5 km in about 1 hour.

Getting to Portofino on foot from Paraggi

If you want to arrive by car, the best solution is to “get close” to Portofino by leaving the car in Paraggi and continuing from there along the 2.5 km trail mentioned in point 6. Parking is not easy in Paraggi either, especially in summer. In reality, you could also walk from Santa Margherita, but it is 5 km and, in summer, with the sun and luggage, it is not easy…

Getting to Portofino by train

Portofino station is not in Portofino! In fact, it is called Santa Margherita Ligure – Portofino, and is located about 5 km from Portofino. Santa Margherita is well connected to the railway network and trains arrive here from Genoa. As already mentioned, from Santa Margherita you can take a taxi, local bus 82, or walk the 5 km in about 1 hour.

Getting to Portofino by boat

Almost everyone gets to Portofino by boat. The routes connecting the village are those from Golfo Paradiso, the Gulf of Tigullio and Genoa. Golfo Paradiso routes are usually active until October and allow you to enjoy the arrival in Portofino stress-free while admiring the wonderful landscape. The closest departures are from Rapallo and Santa Margherita Ligure with the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio, with return fares of around €20.

HAs with restaurants, sleeping in Portofino also requires a small fortune: hotels start from at least €200 per night and reach unlikely figures in high season. Obviously, this is not a good reason to give up visiting this wonderful village.

The best alternative is to sleep in equally beautiful but less expensive places, such as nearby Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli. Hotels have Italian prices but are still acceptable, and allow you to reach the centre of Portofino in just a few minutes by train or bus.

If you are looking for a hotel in Portofino, we recommend choosing from those offered by Booking.com. There are around 60 hotels with prices, photos and reviews from previous guests. Go to Booking.com.